Sanded down

All we know of Barcelona is that Queen sings a song about it, about how it was the first time that they met, and it's glorious.
When we meet Barcelona for the first time it looks like a bit of rubble by the ocean, a pile of broken shells, glinting in the sun under the airplane, reflected in the snow on the mountain behind it. When we come in to land the plane swoops close over the surface of the sea, and it seems as though we're going to slide right into it, under the ships making wide circles, finely-drawn wakes, right into the blue. But we land instead, on a strip of tarmac kissing the beach.
Outside the plane the air is pungent with salt and swept clean with sun and a breeze that the Spanish find wintery, and which, after England's pearly greyness, its graceful withdrawal of warmth, feels like bliss to us, feels like the month of May.
We are cheap tourists in Barcelona, guidebook-wielding hosteling backpackers, knowing very little about the city beside its reputation for sangria. We have nothing to offer but a devalued pound sterling and faces starved for sun. We are tired.
But Barcelona welcomes us as though we were royalty.
At night in Barcelona I dream the old year and wake up tired, but when my eyes open the city is already singing: motorcycles in the street, Spanish through the walls, a humming vacuum, road works. On the balcony the morning rushes to meet me. People are moving in the streets, and my sun-washed holiday-morning eyes interpret them to be leisurely people, people who treat Monday morning like a gift, turning it over and taking time to look at it.
During the day in Barcelona we find the city has lain paths for us, trails leading to mosaic-lighted buildings, pillars, fountains, stone, water.
How to pull water from stone? We pull stones from the water, shells, ancient things washed up on the beach, carvings from another world. They are as detailed and fragile as Picasso's paintings. I stand in the shallows and the sea rushes forward and pulls back with an offbeat rhythm, tugging my feet, my legs, and any remaining shreds of dreams break up and disappear, foam on the surface with the bottom washed clean, changed, sanded down, made new.